Snow and Ice Climbing
During the winter months the high peaks of Lochaber are covered in a mantle of snow and ice, making this the premier destination in the UK to practice winter climbing and mountaineering.
Scottish winter climbing is a unique combination of climbing style, variable conditions, weather and spectacular scenery – all within reach of a warm hotel in town! Snow and ice climbing is very demanding on your skill, stamina and equipment. But the rewards are high. Scottish winter climbing is pure adventure! From classic gullies, snowed-up rock climbs to water-ice and thin face snow-ice climbs or a mixed climb with a bit of everything, it's all in Lochaber.
Steep snow slopes lead up to all winter climbs. These require good judgement of the avalanche risk. Snow conditions are reported daily through the Scottish Avalanche Information Service but it’s essential to constantly monitor the weather and stability of the snow. You need to navigate precisely to descend safely after your climb. The sometimes harsh and very changeable winter weather can easily catch out even the most experienced climbers – but it is also what makes our unique climbing conditions!
At the start of the winter, with a covering of snow and a good freeze, mixed climbs in Glencoe and the Grey Corries are the best options. As the freeze continues, watercourses and low-level streams freeze up – creating great water-ice climbs. The January storms bring frequent thaw-and-freeze cycles that leave snow in the gullies and on the faces, transforming them into perfect snow-ice climbs. February could be the most reliable month to ensure a good cover of snow and ice and a good range of possible climbs. Late in the season, after all the lower hills have thawed out, Ben Nevis comes into its own. Its unique thin-face-ice climbs are known around the world as some the best climbs anywhere!
